copuswalker

Boy what a spring!!!! Been enjoying the motorcycle and doing a little hiking.
Finally did my Big Bend Ranch State Park Bike and Hike thing.
Took off with a suitcase and backpack strapped to the sissy bar!!! Got lots of looks and questions.
Took 7 days and had a 3 day hike planned for the Rancherias trail. It is a fantastic rough trail to say the least. I would recommend it for any "Fit" backpacker. Probably tghe most scenic and remote "feeling" place I have been in years. Desert blooms colorful flowers all over.
If I had to do it again would probably shoot for early April as it was getting warm... Gotta go... Watch out for Jimmy c he will have 5000 + post in no time

__________________
There are those that hike and those that don't and those that say they will but won't.

oceanus

Hey Copus,

I'm glad to hear you finally got to do the trip. I bet it was one hell of a nice one! I want to do the trail sometime later this year, probably in the Fall, once temperatures go down some. Was there any widlife there? I heard a story recently about a guy who did the loop and had himself surrounded by javalinas. He had to get up on a large rock with a couple of large rocks in hand, in order to scare them off. Take care.

copuswalker

Could see the Javelina thing happening? It is remote and wildlife is evident everywhere (though hard to find at times). I would like to do it again for sure..
I was in your neck of the woods (Austin) this weekend for our daughters UIL. Busy spot nowadays???

__________________
There are those that hike and those that don't and those that say they will but won't.

oceanus

Yeah, it has been busy around here. Really, just working a lot, while trying to find permanent work also. It's going to get even harder now that the college kids are getting out of school for the summer. Plus, every weekend I have different people who want to get together and do all kinds of outdoor stuff. But, that's not bad at all, it's more of a pleasure really. Take care.

Alchemist2000

I saw the request for info about Rancherias Trail in another post. Rather than hijack that thread, I thought I would ressurect this old thread and hope some of you experienced with the Rancherias Trail would chime in. We are contemplating a possible trip out there over spring break. I contacted the leader of the group from the Dallas Sierra Club (I am not a member and do not know any of them personally) that did the Rancherias Trail hike over Thanksgiving. He thought that the hike would be too hot over spring break (mid-March) since there is so little shade. Any thoughts from those of you that have done this hike? I was also anxious to know how it compared physically to something like South Rim in Big Bend. We enjoyed that trip tremendously, but I wasn't in as good a shape as I should have been. Finally, where do you go for good topo maps of a hike like this? I have the topo maps that go with MapSource (for my Garmin gps), but I don't think they are detailed enough for this type of hike with a trail that is apparently not very easy to follow.

copuswalker

I hiked the Rancherias trail in April of last year.
It's not the heat it's the humidity! I really though it felt fine. I would not hesitate to do it again that time of year. There are all sorts of rock outcroppings for shade when needed.
I felt it was ther most beautiful hike I had taken. So rugged, beautiful and isolated. I would rank it as one of the harder hikes I have done. Lots of loose rock and plenty of steep hills etc. Water sources are consistant.
We got a maps at the State Park office for about the same as on line.
Leave the gps and rely on the cairns, it keeps it interesting. A little backtracking never hurt anyone!!
I would add...be in shape as one of our group can attest to!
Umm, I shouild have scrolled up and looked at the topic? Oh well it's written now!

__________________
There are those that hike and those that don't and those that say they will but won't.

oceanus

Hey Copus,

I'm getting ready to head out Big Bend way on the 22nd and was considering the Rancherias Loop as a possibility. But, I'm going solo and I'm not sure how I would get back from one trailhead to the other, short of hiking back the way I came from. Did you encounter this problem? If so, how did you deal with it?

copuswalker

Hey Oceanus, We hired an outfitter to drop us off with our truck. They then were to come out 3 days later and drop the truck at the other trail head. We had an extra set of keys and would pick the truck up. Unfortunately one of us cratered and we returned to the same trailhead the next day.
At that point we hitch hiked back since we were early. I believe the cost was $50? The outfitters are easy to find in Terlingua.
A brave man to solo this hike. I would do it but hesitate a little due to the remote location... I know I will one day but have to get back in the swing of things before I do (plus tell the wife I'm going elsewhere :confused: ),,,, Good luck and let me know if I can do anything!!

__________________
There are those that hike and those that don't and those that say they will but won't.

oceanus

I'll have to give that a look. Right now, I'm looking more in depth into a few hikes in Big Bend and one in the Guadalupes. In Big Bend, I'm looking at a loop along the Strawhouse,Telephone Canyon, Ore Terminal Trails, as well as the Marufo Vega and Outer Mountain Loop. In the Guadalupes, I'm thinking of doing a loop along the Tejas, Bush Mountain, and Marcus Trails.

I'll figure it out soon. Happy Holidays!

toejam

I just got back from the Rancherias loop. It was a great hike. I was solo. Spent the night at the adobe huts and also Rancherias Springs. I did a little extra-curricular hiking so 3 days was perfect. Never saw another person but saw tons of birds, some deer, javelina, rats, locust, evidence of wild asses. It was tough but not as much elevation gain as the Chisos Mtns. Not the views of the Chisos, but lots more solitude and the feel of the desert. 3 strong springs, one seep, and other places where water could have been found with some effort. It's quite warm in the sun, but I had a nice breeze and if you are fast and light the spring shouldn't be bad.

The park guys give you a map that's a piece of the 7.5 USGS quads with the trail marked. The trail is not on the USGS quads. The trail is not easy to follow, but it wasn't hard to follow either. I highly recommend this hike!

oceanus

Sounds like you had a good hike. Did you use the outfitter service that Copus was talking about in order to leave you car at your destination trailhead?

I ended up doing the Outer Mountain Loop at Big Bend, the week before last. It was awesome! I did it in three nights and four days. There were snow flurries falling in the desert when I was coming around the Chisos on Christmas Eve. I only saw two couples at the Homer Wilson Ranch and then started seeing some people near the Basin trailhead on my last day.

Happy New Year!

toejam

I left my car at the east trailhead at the ranger's suggestion. There's a mountain between that trailhead and the Rio Grande, but the parking lot is small so my car was right next to the road, and they make you stick a receipt with your departure date in the windshield. The chrome rims were still on it when I got back.

I hiked east to west and left the trail shortly before the west trailhead to hike up a draw to the road. Then hiked over 2 miles down the road to my car in a quick, auto-pilot gait that allowed my mind to focus on the scenery and not my blisters and tired legs. I beat myself up on these short trips trying to cram in as much adventure as possible - I take it easier on week-long trips. Although I took it pretty easy last year hanging out on the southeast rim of the Chisos for 3 days. The view from there is magical.

It sure is a long way to Big Bend but I haven't ever regretted the long drive.

oceanus

So, it's only a few miles from one trailhead to the other along the road? That's good to know. I'm definitely going to contact the ranger station and get some better logistics than are available online, the next time I consider heading that way. And, as you said, it's a long way out to the Big Bend, but I've never regretted it either. It's actually very exciting knowing that you're heading there; then about the time you get to Ft. Stockton, your eyes glaze over and you could swear your in paradise.

Unregistered

I enjoyed the Rancherias Loop so much last year I just did it again. Since this thread is the best source of Rancherias Loop information on the internet, I'll add some updates.

The park rangers assured me there had been no recent trailhead crime, even though you have to leave a paper in your window that says how long you'll be gone. This time I parked at the west trailhead so I wouldn't have to walk the road at the end. I initially tried to bushwhack over to the east trail, but about a mile in discovered water dripping from my pack where my hydration bladder had started to leak. I went back to the car for bottled water and stumbled a couple times on the way getting my hand in a cactus once. When I started over I walked down the road, which was a lot easier and quicker than the bushwhacking. If you bummed a ride from one trailhead to the other you would be less offensive-smelling at the start of your trip.

I had forgotten how faint this trail is. The first time I hiked it I was happy to get where I wanted to go, but this time I was able to stay on the trail more consistently. If you are patient, the cairns and the trail will appear. You will get fewer thorns in you if you stay on the trail. Although summer BDUs are about the greatest pants for hiking in the mountains, they provide precious little protection from desert flora. I wore heavy jeans last year that worked better.

There are several good legal campsites close to the water at the adobe houses in Panther Canyon. They are across the creek from the houses. There is a cave up the hill behind the houses where the family lived before the adobes were built.

I also discovered the best campsites at Rancherias Springs are downstream. I camped about a half mile down from where I was last year because the water wasn't flowing well in the upper part of the spring and the wild donkeys had it mucked up. The stream flows a lot better and is cleaner further down with good campsites near by on the west side.

I spent two nights at Rancherias Springs. I explored the Upper Guale Mesa, hiked the jeep road up towards Oso Peak and back down the North Rancherias drainage on the third day. It was all really beautiful. Looking off into Tapado Canyon from the Upper Guale Mesa was incredible. The edge of the cliff is loose and its a long way down!

Once again I saw no humans on the loop, but plenty of other wildlife, and the javelina weren't aggressive. If you go, watch your footing. It hurts really bad when you fall down in the desert, and you don't want to get injured on this hike.

toejam

I enjoyed the Rancherias Loop so much last year I just did it again. Since this thread is the best source of Rancherias Loop information on the internet, I'll add some updates.

The park rangers assured me there had been no recent trailhead crime, even though you have to leave a paper in your window that says how long you'll be gone. This time I parked at the west trailhead so I wouldn't have to walk the road at the end. I initially tried to bushwhack over to the east trail, but about a mile in discovered water dripping from my pack where my hydration bladder had started to leak. I went back to the car for bottled water and stumbled a couple times on the way getting my hand in a cactus once. When I started over I walked down the road, which was a lot easier and quicker than the bushwhacking. If you bummed a ride from one trailhead to the other you would be less offensive-smelling at the start of your trip.

I had forgotten how faint this trail is. The first time I hiked it I was happy to get where I wanted to go, but this time I was able to stay on the trail more consistently. If you are patient, the cairns and the trail will appear. You will get fewer thorns in you if you stay on the trail. Although summer BDUs are about the greatest pants for hiking in the mountains, they provide precious little protection from desert flora. I wore heavy jeans last year that worked better.

There are several good legal campsites close to the water at the adobe houses in Panther Canyon. They are across the creek from the houses. There is a cave up the hill behind the houses where the family lived before the adobes were built.

I also discovered the best campsites at Rancherias Springs are downstream. I camped about a half mile down from where I was last year because the water wasn't flowing well in the upper part of the spring and the wild donkeys had it mucked up. The stream flows a lot better and is cleaner further down with good campsites near by on the west side.

I spent two nights at Rancherias Springs. I explored the Upper Guale Mesa, hiked the jeep road up towards Oso Peak and back down the North Rancherias drainage on the third day. It was all really beautiful. Looking off into Tapado Canyon from the Upper Guale Mesa was incredible. The edge of the cliff is loose and its a long way down!

Once again I saw no humans on the loop, but plenty of other wildlife, and the javelina weren't aggressive. If you go, watch your footing. It hurts really bad when you fall down in the desert, and you don't want to get injured on this hike.