So true. It was an experiment in designing my own, using a jig/form and building upside-down, using the 1/8 ply, etc. For the most part, successful. I could tweak the design to build another one or make something longer/shorter/wider/deeper etc using the same technique.
Update (pictures to follow in a few days): I went out with 2 friends in my boats. I was able to give the new one a good test - we paddled probably an hour in windy conditions with some waves. The new additions to the cockpit were a big help in keeping water out and making me feel safer, because I wasn't as likely to "scoop" water when it came up to the side of the cockpit. Although I never dumped it, I still didn't feel totally comfortable. Certainly OK for Granbury near to shore, not so good for unknown territory where I might be 12 miles in the middle of nowhere.
After my friends left, I put on some outriggers (temporarily) and it made all the difference in security. I could even sit on the side. BUt I could feel the increased drag and I wanted a fast, effortless Kayak - that's why I made it soe light and narrow. The outriggers were from another boat - made of 4 in PVC tubes, mounted in the rear. So I'm now designing some more aqua-dynamic outriggers that will "float" more and not drag so much hopefully. I am considering ripping out the cockpuit, and reinforcing the sides to try to mount outriggers for oars, and using it for rowing. It's a perfect shape for a sculling shell.
Another thought occured to me - I can use the dimensions and patterns I have, and throw together a flat-bottomed version fairly quickly. A flat-bottomed boat will go together much quicker. If I do this, I will change some of the problem areas, such as decrease the rocker and maybe make the sides a tad bit higher. Just to see if these design changes make much difference.
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